2024-03-28T10:52:16Z
https://u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp/oai
oai:u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp:02005382
2022-10-31T02:40:19Z
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巻き波型砕波に伴う組織的乱流構造に関する研究
Coherent Structures in Turblent Flow Under Plunging Breaker of Water Waves
仲座, 栄三
津嘉山, 正光
宮里, 一郎
榎本, 真久
川満, 康智
Nakaza, Eizo
Tsukayama, Seikoh
Miyazato, Ichiro
Enomoto, Masahisa
Kawamitsu, Yasutomo
open access
Horizontal Roller
Wave Breaking
Plunging Breaker
Mass Transport
Undertow
In surf zone, wave height and velocity of incoming waves change dramatically. It has been said that the sand transportin the near shore region is mostly occurred in the surf zone. Sawaragi and Iwata(1973) discovered a coherent structure of turbulent flow under plunging breaker, and they named it as ‘Horizontal roller'. They pointed out that a lot of sediment on the sea bottom is curled up towards water surface by the horizontal roller. Clarification of the turbulent structure in breaking waves make advances in developing the physical models of wave breaking and sand transport. But until now, many attempts to measure the velocity field in surf zone, with the LDV or EMC, have been prevented due to a large amount of bubble entrained by plunging of water jet. Nakaza et.al. (1995) succeeded in measuring of the velocity field contained a large amount of bubble under plunging breaker. In this study, by Nakaza's method utilizing a super-miniature proper current meter, the coherent structures in surf zone, particular the horizontal roller, are clarified experimentally. The generation and dissipation of large eddies in the water under plunging breaker are studied, applying Dean's stream function theory to discrete thepotential and velocity components of flow velocity from measured data.
紀要論文
琉球大学工学部
1996-09
jpn
departmental bulletin paper
VoR
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/15847
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/15847
https://u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp/records/2005382
0389-102X
AN0025048X
琉球大学工学部紀要
52
51
56
https://u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/2005382/files/No52p051.pdf