2024-03-28T23:40:56Z
https://u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp/oai
oai:u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp:02017629
2023-05-22T01:35:49Z
1642838163960:1645772410074:1645675744155:1645675977055
1642838403551:1642838412624
沖縄島におけるサンゴ礁海浜の汀線砕波波高に関する推定式
A Quantitative Prediction for Shore Break Height on Coral Beaches with a Fringing Reef, Okinawa Island
青木, 久
Aoki, Hisashi
武石, 裕
Takeishi, Yu
前門, 晃
Maekado, Akira
汀線砕波波高
サンゴ礁幅
水深
裾礁
沖縄島
shore break height
reef width
water depth
fringing reef
Okinawa Island
Field measurements were carried out on Yomitan coast with a fringing reef in Okinawa Island, Japan to investigate the relationship between the shore break height (H_b), the reef width(W), the wave height (H') and water depth(h) at the reef edge. The ratio of the shore break height to the wave height at the reef edge, H_b/H’, which denotes the degree of the reduction of wave height on a reef, was found to decrease with increasing W, and to decrease with decreasing h. This result indicates that the reduction of wave height on a reef is greatly controlled by morphological features of a fringing reef. Using the results of the present study data, an equation connecting H_b and H', h, and W, is derived from the regression analysis as follows: H_b = 111.7 (h/W) H'.
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
沖縄地理学会
The Okinawa Geographical Society
VoR
0916-6084
沖縄地理
15
10
1
jpn
open access