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The previous paper proposed a model of the breaking of waves from these (η,φ)-systems. In this paper the fourth-order wave equation, expessed in the surface displacement only, that is, η-system, is obtained from the (η,φ)-system in the same way of the second report. The breaking model is recast from Hamiltonian function, which is the integral surface of the η-system, by appling catastrophe thoery to this function based on the view of perturbations for the surface. Analytical characteristics of wave profile, wave velocity and the breaking criterion for the catastrophe model are discussed in detail and compared with that of Stokes waves, Laitone\u0027s cnoidal waves and others. The main results of this analysis are summarized as follows: (1) Breaking hight and maximum wave velocity of the solitary wave are 0.8375 and 1.309, respectively, and nearly equal to that gained by Byatt-Smith and Fenton. (2) The breaking criterion of periodical waves agrees well with Miche formula and Shuto\u0027s criterion for Stokes waves in the range where the shallowness is less than 0.05. (3) Solitary and periodical wave profiles have steeper crests than that of Stokes and cnoidal waves. 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浅海における進行波の砕波について(第3報)
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/27458
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/274586a4f1c6f-1477-47d5-987e-e25737fc2249
名前 / ファイル | ライセンス | アクション |
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Item type | デフォルトアイテムタイプ(フル)(1) | |||||||||
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公開日 | 2013-09-06 | |||||||||
タイトル | ||||||||||
タイトル | 浅海における進行波の砕波について(第3報) | |||||||||
言語 | ja | |||||||||
タイトル | ||||||||||
タイトル | On the Breaking of Progressive Waves in Shallow Water Part 3. | |||||||||
言語 | en | |||||||||
作成者 |
筒井, 茂明
× 筒井, 茂明
× Tsutsui, Shigeaki
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アクセス権 | ||||||||||
アクセス権 | open access | |||||||||
アクセス権URI | http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 | |||||||||
内容記述 | ||||||||||
内容記述タイプ | Other | |||||||||
内容記述 | The basic equations for wave motions are formed with the surface displacement-η and the velocity potential-φ. The previous paper proposed a model of the breaking of waves from these (η,φ)-systems. In this paper the fourth-order wave equation, expessed in the surface displacement only, that is, η-system, is obtained from the (η,φ)-system in the same way of the second report. The breaking model is recast from Hamiltonian function, which is the integral surface of the η-system, by appling catastrophe thoery to this function based on the view of perturbations for the surface. Analytical characteristics of wave profile, wave velocity and the breaking criterion for the catastrophe model are discussed in detail and compared with that of Stokes waves, Laitone's cnoidal waves and others. The main results of this analysis are summarized as follows: (1) Breaking hight and maximum wave velocity of the solitary wave are 0.8375 and 1.309, respectively, and nearly equal to that gained by Byatt-Smith and Fenton. (2) The breaking criterion of periodical waves agrees well with Miche formula and Shuto's criterion for Stokes waves in the range where the shallowness is less than 0.05. (3) Solitary and periodical wave profiles have steeper crests than that of Stokes and cnoidal waves. (4) Other periodical wave characteristics, that is, wave length, hight from trough to still water level, wave crest hight and wave velocity etc., show the values obtained from longer period waves about 5-8%\nthan the other wave theories. | |||||||||
内容記述 | ||||||||||
内容記述タイプ | Other | |||||||||
内容記述 | 紀要論文 | |||||||||
出版者 | ||||||||||
言語 | ja | |||||||||
出版者 | 琉球大学理工学部 | |||||||||
出版者 | ||||||||||
言語 | en | |||||||||
出版者 | Science and Engineering Division, University of the Ryukyus | |||||||||
言語 | ||||||||||
言語 | jpn | |||||||||
資源タイプ | ||||||||||
資源タイプ | departmental bulletin paper | |||||||||
資源タイプ識別子 | http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 | |||||||||
出版タイプ | ||||||||||
出版タイプ | VoR | |||||||||
出版タイプResource | http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 | |||||||||
識別子 | ||||||||||
識別子 | http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/27458 | |||||||||
識別子タイプ | HDL | |||||||||
収録物識別子 | ||||||||||
収録物識別子タイプ | ISSN | |||||||||
収録物識別子 | 0387-429X | |||||||||
収録物識別子 | ||||||||||
収録物識別子タイプ | NCID | |||||||||
収録物識別子 | AN00250785 | |||||||||
収録物名 | ||||||||||
言語 | ja | |||||||||
収録物名 | 琉球大学理工学部紀要. 工学篇 | |||||||||
収録物名 | ||||||||||
言語 | en | |||||||||
収録物名 | Bulletin of Science & Engineering Division, University of the Ryukyus. Engineering | |||||||||
書誌情報 |
号 16, p. 69-84, 発行日 1978-09-01 |