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  1. 紀要論文
  2. 琉球大学理工学部紀要 工学編
  3. 16号
  1. 部局別インデックス
  2. 工学部

浅海における進行波の砕波について(第3報)

http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/27458
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/27458
6a4f1c6f-1477-47d5-987e-e25737fc2249
名前 / ファイル ライセンス アクション
No16P069.pdf No16P069.pdf
Item type デフォルトアイテムタイプ(フル)(1)
公開日 2013-09-06
タイトル
タイトル 浅海における進行波の砕波について(第3報)
言語 ja
タイトル
タイトル On the Breaking of Progressive Waves in Shallow Water Part 3.
言語 en
作成者 筒井, 茂明

× 筒井, 茂明

ja 筒井, 茂明

Search repository
Tsutsui, Shigeaki

× Tsutsui, Shigeaki

en Tsutsui, Shigeaki

Search repository
アクセス権
アクセス権 open access
アクセス権URI http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
内容記述
内容記述タイプ Other
内容記述 The basic equations for wave motions are formed with the surface displacement-η and the velocity potential-φ. The previous paper proposed a model of the breaking of waves from these (η,φ)-systems. In this paper the fourth-order wave equation, expessed in the surface displacement only, that is, η-system, is obtained from the (η,φ)-system in the same way of the second report. The breaking model is recast from Hamiltonian function, which is the integral surface of the η-system, by appling catastrophe thoery to this function based on the view of perturbations for the surface. Analytical characteristics of wave profile, wave velocity and the breaking criterion for the catastrophe model are discussed in detail and compared with that of Stokes waves, Laitone's cnoidal waves and others. The main results of this analysis are summarized as follows: (1) Breaking hight and maximum wave velocity of the solitary wave are 0.8375 and 1.309, respectively, and nearly equal to that gained by Byatt-Smith and Fenton. (2) The breaking criterion of periodical waves agrees well with Miche formula and Shuto's criterion for Stokes waves in the range where the shallowness is less than 0.05. (3) Solitary and periodical wave profiles have steeper crests than that of Stokes and cnoidal waves. (4) Other periodical wave characteristics, that is, wave length, hight from trough to still water level, wave crest hight and wave velocity etc., show the values obtained from longer period waves about 5-8%\nthan the other wave theories.
内容記述
内容記述タイプ Other
内容記述 紀要論文
出版者
言語 ja
出版者 琉球大学理工学部
出版者
言語 en
出版者 Science and Engineering Division, University of the Ryukyus
言語
言語 jpn
資源タイプ
資源タイプ departmental bulletin paper
資源タイプ識別子 http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
出版タイプ
出版タイプ VoR
出版タイプResource http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
識別子
識別子 http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/27458
識別子タイプ HDL
収録物識別子
収録物識別子タイプ ISSN
収録物識別子 0387-429X
収録物識別子
収録物識別子タイプ NCID
収録物識別子 AN00250785
収録物名
言語 ja
収録物名 琉球大学理工学部紀要. 工学篇
収録物名
言語 en
収録物名 Bulletin of Science & Engineering Division, University of the Ryukyus. Engineering
書誌情報
号 16, p. 69-84, 発行日 1978-09-01
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