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  1. 紀要論文
  2. 琉球大学工学部紀要
  3. 23号
  1. 部局別インデックス
  2. 工学部

強風により発生する砕波波列に関する実験的研究

http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2209
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2209
0eefc1b4-9e6e-47ff-a39a-b0b5e5069208
名前 / ファイル ライセンス アクション
No23p21.pdf No23p21.pdf
Item type デフォルトアイテムタイプ(フル)(1)
公開日 2007-10-28
タイトル
タイトル 強風により発生する砕波波列に関する実験的研究
言語 ja
作成者 筒井, 茂明

× 筒井, 茂明

ja 筒井, 茂明

土屋, 義人

× 土屋, 義人

ja 土屋, 義人

Tsutsui, Shigeaki

× Tsutsui, Shigeaki

en Tsutsui, Shigeaki

Tsuchiya, Yoshito

× Tsuchiya, Yoshito

en Tsuchiya, Yoshito

アクセス権
アクセス権 open access
アクセス権URI http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
主題
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Breaking wave trains
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Wind waves
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Wind-induced currents
内容記述
内容記述タイプ Other
内容記述 When strong winds blow over shallow water for a long duration, wind induced currents are generated. At the same time wind waves are evolved on them untill the waves break such as white cups. The heigher the wind wave heights evolve, the more the breaking of waves of particular wave heights and periods resonant with the wind speed may become predominant. At this circumstance the wind acts on the waves as a driving force. As the result of these interaction between winds and waves, we may often observe progressive breaking waves without deformation of their profiles, The breaking phenomena are named the 'Breaking wave trains', The waves are vitally important in studying shore processes, as they deeply concern with near - shore currents and sand drifts in a surf zone.\nHydraulic experiments, as the first step to find out properties of the breaking wave trains, were carried out with a recirculating wind wave tank which can reproduce wind - generated random waves accompanied with currents. Wave periods and heights of breaking wave trains correspond to those obtained from the peak frequencies of wind wave power spectra and significant wave heights. The wind - induced currents have an important role in the mass transport in the wave trains. Because of the strong currents, the wave field may be considered as a unidirectional flow, and there exists a critical depth which is nearly equal to the mean depth of the breaking wave trains in a reference frame moving with the wave trains at a speed of the wave celerity. The phase of the wave crest is, hydraulically speaking, subcritical, and that of the wave trough is supercritical in this steady flow system.
内容記述タイプ Other
内容記述 紀要論文
出版者
言語 ja
出版者 琉球大学工学部
言語
言語 jpn
資源タイプ
資源タイプ departmental bulletin paper
資源タイプ識別子 http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
出版タイプ
出版タイプ VoR
出版タイプResource http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
識別子
識別子 http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2209
識別子タイプ HDL
収録物識別子
収録物識別子タイプ ISSN
収録物識別子 0389-102X
収録物識別子タイプ NCID
収録物識別子 AN0025048X
収録物名
言語 ja
収録物名 琉球大学工学部紀要
書誌情報
号 23, p. 21-33
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