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  1. 紀要論文
  2. 琉球大学工学部紀要
  3. 49号
  1. 部局別インデックス
  2. 工学部

バリ島サヌール海岸における波浪特性

http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2215
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2215
f807c023-4f62-4ad5-94b8-5ec83d2fe169
名前 / ファイル ライセンス アクション
No49p27.pdf No49p27.pdf
Item type デフォルトアイテムタイプ(フル)(1)
公開日 2007-10-28
タイトル
タイトル バリ島サヌール海岸における波浪特性
言語 ja
作成者 筒井, 茂明

× 筒井, 茂明

ja 筒井, 茂明

大城, 真一

× 大城, 真一

ja 大城, 真一

鈴山, 勝之

× 鈴山, 勝之

ja 鈴山, 勝之

Tsutsui, Shigeaki

× Tsutsui, Shigeaki

en Tsutsui, Shigeaki

Oshiro, Shinichi

× Oshiro, Shinichi

en Oshiro, Shinichi

Suzuyuma, Katsuyuki

× Suzuyuma, Katsuyuki

en Suzuyuma, Katsuyuki

アクセス権
アクセス権 open access
アクセス権URI http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2
主題
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Wave statistics
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Probability density function
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Wave breaking
言語 en
主題Scheme Other
主題 Coral beach
内容記述
内容記述タイプ Other
内容記述 Beach erosion is a major problem at coral beaches in Bali, Indonesia, because of the changes in natural environment and utilization of coastal areas. Survey of sea waves, as joint research works between Japan and Indonesia, was carried out at Sanur beach in Bali, to know what kinds of waves are effective for beach processes. Features of sea waves and their statistic properties, such as shape moduli of the probability density function and the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods, are investigated by using the data measured. The results are summarized as follows:\nGeneral features;\n(1) At Sanur beach the wave direction is unchanged throughout the year, and waves in the dry season (June to August) govern the coastal process and sand movement because of higher wave heights and longer wave periods rather than that in the wet season (December to February).\n(2) Swell with the period of about 15 seconds, though dissipated by wave breaking at the top of the coral reef, is significant among wave components penetrating onto Sanur beach.\nWave statistic properties;\n(1) Both in and out the coral reef at high tidal level of water, the probability density function for wave heights is described with the Rayleigh distribution.\n(2) The relations among the shape modulus for wave periods, the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods, and the spectral width parameter agree, for incident waves, with the results of Goda (1970) and Kimura (1978). Because of wave breaking, however, the shape modulus for wave periods on the coral flat takes smaller values than that for non-breaking waves, and the spectral width becomes wide.\n(3) The correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods increases with respect to the spectral width and, as it tends to unity, the shape modulus for wave periods decreases down to 2.
内容記述タイプ Other
内容記述 紀要論文
出版者
言語 ja
出版者 琉球大学工学部
言語
言語 jpn
資源タイプ
資源タイプ departmental bulletin paper
資源タイプ識別子 http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501
出版タイプ
出版タイプ VoR
出版タイプResource http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85
識別子
識別子 http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2215
識別子タイプ HDL
収録物識別子
収録物識別子タイプ ISSN
収録物識別子 0389-102X
収録物識別子タイプ NCID
収録物識別子 AN0025048X
収録物名
言語 ja
収録物名 琉球大学工学部紀要
書誌情報
号 49, p. 27-38
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