Item type |
デフォルトアイテムタイプ(フル)(1) |
公開日 |
2007-10-28 |
タイトル |
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タイトル |
バリ島サヌール海岸における波浪特性 |
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言語 |
ja |
タイトル |
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タイトル |
Characteristics of Sea Waves at Sanur Coral Beach in Bali |
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言語 |
en |
作成者 |
筒井, 茂明
大城, 真一
鈴山, 勝之
Tsutsui, Shigeaki
Oshiro, Shinichi
Suzuyuma, Katsuyuki
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アクセス権 |
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アクセス権 |
open access |
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アクセス権URI |
http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2 |
主題 |
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言語 |
en |
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主題Scheme |
Other |
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主題 |
Wave statistics |
主題 |
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言語 |
en |
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主題Scheme |
Other |
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主題 |
Probability density function |
主題 |
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言語 |
en |
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主題Scheme |
Other |
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主題 |
Wave breaking |
主題 |
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言語 |
en |
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主題Scheme |
Other |
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主題 |
Coral beach |
内容記述 |
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内容記述タイプ |
Other |
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内容記述 |
Beach erosion is a major problem at coral beaches in Bali, Indonesia, because of the changes in natural environment and utilization of coastal areas. Survey of sea waves, as joint research works between Japan and Indonesia, was carried out at Sanur beach in Bali, to know what kinds of waves are effective for beach processes. Features of sea waves and their statistic properties, such as shape moduli of the probability density function and the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods, are investigated by using the data measured. The results are summarized as follows:\nGeneral features;\n(1) At Sanur beach the wave direction is unchanged throughout the year, and waves in the dry season (June to August) govern the coastal process and sand movement because of higher wave heights and longer wave periods rather than that in the wet season (December to February).\n(2) Swell with the period of about 15 seconds, though dissipated by wave breaking at the top of the coral reef, is significant among wave components penetrating onto Sanur beach.\nWave statistic properties;\n(1) Both in and out the coral reef at high tidal level of water, the probability density function for wave heights is described with the Rayleigh distribution.\n(2) The relations among the shape modulus for wave periods, the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods, and the spectral width parameter agree, for incident waves, with the results of Goda (1970) and Kimura (1978). Because of wave breaking, however, the shape modulus for wave periods on the coral flat takes smaller values than that for non-breaking waves, and the spectral width becomes wide.\n(3) The correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods increases with respect to the spectral width and, as it tends to unity, the shape modulus for wave periods decreases down to 2. |
内容記述 |
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内容記述タイプ |
Other |
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内容記述 |
紀要論文 |
出版者 |
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出版者 |
琉球大学工学部 |
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言語 |
ja |
言語 |
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言語 |
jpn |
資源タイプ |
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資源タイプ識別子 |
http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501 |
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資源タイプ |
departmental bulletin paper |
出版タイプ |
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出版タイプ |
VoR |
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出版タイプResource |
http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85 |
識別子 |
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識別子 |
http://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12000/2215 |
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識別子タイプ |
HDL |
収録物識別子 |
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収録物識別子タイプ |
ISSN |
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収録物識別子 |
0389-102X |
収録物識別子 |
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収録物識別子タイプ |
NCID |
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収録物識別子 |
AN0025048X |
収録物名 |
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収録物名 |
琉球大学工学部紀要 |
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言語 |
ja |
書誌情報 |
号 49,
p. 27-38
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