{"_buckets": {"deposit": "5c941f09-6549-4de8-b6d5-32e991365e46"}, "_deposit": {"id": "2019417", "owner": "1", "owners": [1], "pid": {"revision_id": 0, "type": "depid", "value": "2019417"}, "status": "published"}, "_oai": {"id": "oai:u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp:02019417", "sets": ["1657698517768", "1642838412624"]}, "author_link": [], "item_1617186331708": {"attribute_name": "Title", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_1551255647225": "水波の砕波形態とその発生メカニズム", "subitem_1551255648112": "ja"}]}, "item_1617186419668": {"attribute_name": "Creator", "attribute_type": "creator", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"creatorNames": [{"creatorName": "仲座, 栄三", "creatorNameLang": "ja"}]}, {"creatorNames": [{"creatorName": "田中, 聡", "creatorNameLang": "ja"}]}, {"creatorNames": [{"creatorName": "本屋敷, 椋", "creatorNameLang": "ja"}]}, {"creatorNames": [{"creatorName": "Schaab, Carolyn", "creatorNameLang": "en"}]}]}, "item_1617186476635": {"attribute_name": "Access Rights", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_1522299639480": "open access", "subitem_1600958577026": "http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2"}]}, "item_1617186499011": {"attribute_name": "Rights", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_1522650717957": "ja", "subitem_1522651041219": "沖縄科学防災環境学会"}]}, "item_1617186609386": {"attribute_name": "Subject", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_1522299896455": "en", "subitem_1522300014469": "Other", "subitem_1523261968819": "breaker type"}, {"subitem_1522299896455": "en", "subitem_1522300014469": "Other", "subitem_1523261968819": "water wave"}, {"subitem_1522299896455": "en", "subitem_1522300014469": "Other", "subitem_1523261968819": "wave breaking"}, {"subitem_1522299896455": "en", "subitem_1522300014469": "Other", "subitem_1523261968819": "surf zone"}, {"subitem_1522299896455": "en", "subitem_1522300014469": "Other", "subitem_1523261968819": "Iribarren number"}, {"subitem_1522299896455": "en", "subitem_1522300014469": "Other", "subitem_1523261968819": "Surfing"}]}, "item_1617186626617": {"attribute_name": "Description", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_description": "CADMASS-SURFを用いた数値計算により，水の波の砕波形態が明らかにされている．Galvinは，砕波の形態が４タイプに大別されることを実験的に示している．その内で，spillingとplungingについては，多くの教科書などでも図や写真を用いて説明されてきており，それら２つの違いは比較的明確である．しかしながら，Galvinの与えたcollapsing及びsurgingについては，両者の違いがあまり明確となっていない．また，波の砕波形態がなぜ４タイプに大別されるのかについての物理的説明は必ずしも十分でない．本論は，数値計算により，それらが斜面上の波の砕波・遡上後の戻り流れと進行波の軌道流速との相対的強弱とに関連づけられることを明らかにしている．また，これまであいまいであったcollapsingの発生メカニズムを明らかにしている．さらに，新たにresonant mode breakerの存在を見出している．最後に，サーファーが砕ける波をサーフィンできる仕組みを明らかにしている．", "subitem_description_language": "ja", "subitem_description_type": "Abstract"}]}, "item_1617186643794": {"attribute_name": "Publisher", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_1522300295150": "ja", "subitem_1522300316516": "沖縄科学防災環境学会"}, {"subitem_1522300295150": "en", "subitem_1522300316516": "Okinawa Society of Science, Disaster Prevention, and Environmental Engineering"}]}, "item_1617186819068": {"attribute_name": "Identifier Registration", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_identifier_reg_text": "10.24564/0002019417", "subitem_identifier_reg_type": "JaLC"}]}, "item_1617187056579": {"attribute_name": "Bibliographic Information", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"bibliographicIssueDates": {"bibliographicIssueDateType": "Issued"}, "bibliographicIssueNumber": "1", "bibliographicPageEnd": "16", "bibliographicPageStart": "1", "bibliographicVolumeNumber": "4"}]}, "item_1617258105262": {"attribute_name": "Resource Type", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"resourcetype": "journal article", "resourceuri": "http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501"}]}, "item_1617265215918": {"attribute_name": "Version Type", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"subitem_1522305645492": "VoR", "subitem_1600292170262": "http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85"}]}, "item_1617605131499": {"attribute_name": "File", "attribute_type": "file", "attribute_value_mlt": [{"accessrole": "open_access", "date": [{"dateType": "Available", "dateValue": "2022-07-13"}], "download_preview_message": "", "file_order": 0, "filename": "vol4no1p1.pdf", "future_date_message": "", "is_thumbnail": false, "mimetype": "", "size": 0, "url": {"objectType": "fulltext", "url": "https://u-ryukyu.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/2019417/files/vol4no1p1.pdf"}, "version_id": "4d8104c1-e828-42b0-8d69-d2f07ed0f942"}]}, "item_title": "水波の砕波形態とその発生メカニズム", "item_type_id": "59", "owner": "1", "path": ["1657698517768", "1642838412624"], "permalink_uri": "https://doi.org/10.24564/0002019417", "pubdate": {"attribute_name": "PubDate", "attribute_value": "2022-07-25"}, "publish_date": "2022-07-25", "publish_status": "0", "recid": "2019417", "relation": {}, "relation_version_is_last": true, "title": ["水波の砕波形態とその発生メカニズム"], "weko_shared_id": -1}